Enchanted Towy
Llandeilo to Carmarthen
Between Llandeilo and Carmarthen the Towy meanders through the flat valley floor in scenery reminiscent of parkland, no doubt due to the large estates that dominate the area. The hills on either side of the valley have country houses castles and monuments. Golden Grove or Gelli Aur was the home of the Cawdor family (not of Macbeth fame). The grounds of Gelli Aur are now a country park featuring an arboretum, deer park and nature trails. The estate now contains Carmarthenshire's Agricultural College and the fields adjoining the river are home to the Welsh Game Fair held over two days on the second weekend in June.
Dominating the Southern skyline is Paxton's Tower once part of the Middleton Estate that is now the National Botanic Garden. The views from the first floor of the tower are well worth the detour.
Country fairs and agricultural shows are a feature throughout the area with horses and ponies a major attraction. The photograph shows Ponarcothi Agricultural Show.
The castles of Dynevor and Dryslwyn are prominent features and both offer beautiful panoramas over the valley.
Gelli Aur (Golden Grove) offers 60 acres of peaceful park and woodland on the southern side of the Towy opposite Aberglasney. Originally the home of the Vaughan family, Golden Grove passed to the Cawdors in 1804 and they built the present mansion. Probably the largest house in the valley, it is closed to the public but the parkland is open (no entry charge but pay and display parking in operation).
Golden Grove mansion was rebuilt by the Earl of Cawdor between 1827 and 1832, replacing the Tudor mansion of the Vaughan family. It presented superb views over the valley.
The Vaughan family was in Welsh named Fychan. Gruffydd Fychan was married to Katherine, daughter of Maredudd ap Tudor. Their son Hugh Fychan moved to Carmarthenshire in 1485 and married Jane, daughter of Morris ab Owain, Steward of the Lordship of Kidwelly and Receiver of the Commotes of Iscennen and Carnwyllion. Hugh Fychan was appointed Forester of Kidwelly and by 1492 was Gentleman Usher at the court of Henry VII his cousin. In 1532 Hugh Fychan, or Vaughan as he was now known, was appointed Keeper and Receiver of lands in Kidwelly confiscated by Henry VIII from Rhys ap Gruffydd of Dynevor. The family home was Cwrt Bryn y Beirdd a 14th century unfortified mansion opposite Carreg Cennen Castle in the Commote of Iscennen. Hugh and Jane had one son, John Vaughan.
John Vaughan of Kidwelly moved to Gelli Aur in the 16th century. His son Walter married twice, first into the Dinevor family and then to Letitia, daughter of Sir John Perrot of Laugharne. Walter's eldest son John (1572-1634) was twice Member of Parliament for Carmarthen Borough. He served under the Earl of Essex in Ireland and subsequently was appointed to the household of Prince Charles. He was created Baron Mulingar in 1621 and Earl of Carbery in 1628.
His son Richard succeeded him as 2nd Earl of Carbery and became Lord President of the Marches of Wales and was created Baron Vaughan of Emlyn (a British rather than an Irish peerage) A royalist in the early years of the Civil War he took no part in hostilities after 1644. A refugee at Golden Grove during that war was Jeremy Taylor whose religious writings include "Golden Grove; or a Manuall of daily prayers and letanies". At the time of his death Richard Vaughan owned 50,000 acres as well as land in Ireland.
The 3rd and last Earl of Carbery was Richard's son John (1640-1713). Like his father and grandfather he was Member of Parliament for Carmarthen Borough but was also appointed Governor of Jamaica 1674-78 where his deputy was the notorious Sir Henry Morgan. He returned to London and became President of the Royal Society 1686-89. He was described by Samuel Pepys as "one of the lewdest fellows of the age". His only daughter married Lord Bolton but died without issue and the estate passed to a cousin, yet another John Vaughan (1693-1765). He built a new Golden Grove mansion alongside the original that had been destroyed by fire in 1729. His grandson, John Vaughan (1757-1804) died without issue and left the estate to his friend John Campbell, Lord Cawdor. The Campbell family already owned land in Pembrokeshire as well as Cawdor Castle in Scotland. John Campbell's son, John Frederick Campbell, second Baron Cawdor was created Earl of Cawdor in 1827. It was he who built the present Golden Grove mansion. John Duncan Vaughan Campbell, 5th Earl of Cawdor (1900-1970) spent most of his time in Scotland and leased Golden Grove mansion and the surrounding land to Carmarthenshire County Council. The bulk of the estate is used as an agricultural college.
The Cawdor name is continued in the area in the Cawdor, a leading hotel in Llandeilo. Formerly the Cawdor Hotel was the Bear Inn, described by Sir Richard Hoare in the 1790s as the "worst in South Wales" and by a Miss Spence as "very uncomfortable and exorbitant", but was commended by The Cambrian Travellers' Guide and Handbook of 1808.
The Arboretum at Gelli Aur has a selection of specimen trees from around the world. It was planted in the 1860s in parkland that already contained a range of mature oaks and sweet chestnuts. The Llandeilo website contains a full description
The Deer Park at Gelli Aur has some 20 Fallow deer in its 20 acres. The original Deer Park was some twenty times larger with a herd of up to 600 deer. Today the deer can be seen from the terrace of the cafe. There appears to be a resident peacock on the terrace.
Paxton's Tower
The Middleton family built a mansion in the parish of Llanarthne in the early 1600s In 1789 William Paxton purchased the estate and built a new hall regarded as one of the most splendid mansions in South Wales. Paxton had started his career in the Navy but moved to India and turned to banking, eventually establishing a Merchant Bank. A friend of Nelson, he had Nelson's Tower otherwise known as Paxton's Tower built in his memory. Originally a track led from the Hall to the Tower and carriages would transport guests to the tower where the first floor was a dining room with magnificent views over the Towy valley. The Tower is now in the hands of the National Trust. Access is via narrow lanes. There is a car park and a short walk through a field and there is no admission charge.
Looking towards Llandeilo from Paxton's Tower
The view from Paxton's Tower with the Black Mountain in the distance
Grongar Hill celebrated by the poet John Dyer. Dryslwyn Castle is in the foreground, bottom left while Hill and the Iron Age hill fort of Grongaer is at the centre of the picture. Aberglasney Gardens are situated behind the hill.
Grongar Hill
Site and Photographs © Geoffrey Davies 2008 Contact info@enchantedtowy.co.uk