Llandovery

Enchanted Towy

Llandovery

Llandovery Castle and the statue of Llewelyn Ap Gruffydd Fychan

The Towy Valley from Llandovery Castle

George Borrow in his book "Wild Wales" speaking of Llandovery had no hesitation in saying "is about the pleasantest little town in which I have halted in the course of my wanderings". He tells the story of Rees Pritchard, vicar of Llandovery in the 16th century who though being a parson frequented the inns of the town and was habitually drunk. One day he gave the inn's resident billy goat a beer and the goat collapsed drunk on the floor. The following day the vicar offered the goat another drink but it turned its head away, whereupon Rees Pritchard said that if the goat showed such intelligence to refrain from drink, he should do likewise and gave up drink. He became a celebrated preacher, still revered by parishioners two hundred years later. He was also the writer of a work called Canwyll y Cymry, "the Welshman's Candle," a book of 210 poems on religion.

Llandovery today is a busy town with small shops and an agricultural feel. The A40 runs through the centre of the town and is restricted in width. There is an abundance of old coaching inns.

Llandovery's history dates back to Roman times when it was known as Alabum. The Romans established a fort just to the north of the present town to guard the route between Brecon and Carmarthen and the fort guarding the gold mines at Pumsaint.

The church at Llanfair-ar-y-bryn just off the road to Llanwrtyd Wells stands in one corner of what was the Roman Fort and the remains of the road to Pumsaint is clearly visible.

One of Llandovery's most famous residents was William Williams Pantycelyn 1717-1791, a poet and leader of the Welsh Methodist movement but best remembered as the writer of the hymn Arglwydd, arwain trwy'r anialwch, in English, Lord, Lead Me Through The Wilderness, translated as the English Hymn Guide me, O Thou Great Jehovah, usually sung to John Hughes' Cwm Rhondda. His grave can be seen at St Mary's church at Llanfair ar y Bryn on the northern edge of the town.

Some 50 years after the Norman Conquest, the Marcher Lord Richard Fitz Pons started the construction of a motte and bailey castle at Llandovery. While the welsh attacked the castle and destroyed the bailey, the Normans retained control of the castle until 1158. The Lord Rhys captured the castle from the then owner Walter Clifford. Possession of the castle alternated between the Welsh and English until 1277 when the castle fell to Edward I. For a few months in 1282 it was occupied by Llewelyn the Last for a few months, but after his death was strengthened by John Giffard. Much of the surviving structure dates from this time. After 1282 the castle gradually fell into disrepair and was finally destroyed during the English Civil War.

While the remains of the castle today are hidden from passing traffic at the back of the town car park it occupies a strategic site above the River Bran. The River Towy flows half a mile away.

Memorial to Llewelyn Ap Gruffydd Fychan

The memorial was unveiled in 2001, having been commissioned following a competition in 2000. During the rebellion of Owain Glyndwr against Henry IV that started in 1400, Henry forced Llewelyn, a local landowner, into his service to find Glyndwr and his army. But Llewelyn had two sons serving with Glyndwr and led Henry and his army on a tour of the mountains allowing Glyndwr and his army to escape to his stronghold in the north. Llewelyn was forced to confess his allegiance to Glyndwr and was publicly disembowelled and dismembered alive before the castle gates. His salted remains were then exhibited in other Welsh towns as a deterrent to others.

The memorial was produced by Toby and Gideon Petersen of St Clears. It is 16 ft high and constructed of stainless steel. The helmet, sword, scabbard and cloak are historically accurate for the early 15th century, while the shield depicts the four lions of Gwynedd reflecting Llewelyn's loyalty to Glyndwr.

Llandovery was given its charter in 1485 by Richard III. The town corporation was governed by a Bailiff presiding over a Council of Burgesses, an arrangement that persisted until 1836. The Town Hall was built under the provisions of the Charter of 1485. The present Town Hall pictured dates from 1857 and is the fourth to be built. The name Llandovery is an anglicized corruption of the Welsh Llanymddyfri meaning "church among the waters"

Like many towns in Wales Llandovery prospered with the military presence of the castle in its early days but suffered when England and Wales were united under the Act of Union of 1536 and the military disappeared. Llandovery however benefited from its position on the main London to Carmarthen road as can be witnessed by the number of coaching inns. The role of the drovers in the town's success is commemorated by the statue, pictured above, situated outside the heritage centre.

The town is now the home of Llandovery College, one of a small number of noted public schools in Wales.

Welsh Crafts

Llandovery's Castle Hotel

Waterloo Bridge over the River Bran

St Dingwat's Church